"The Story of Cosmetics" - Sophistry At Its Finest
Though riddled with clever falsehoods and logical fallacies, "The Story of Cosmetics" is brilliant rhetoric - which is to say it's extremely persuasive. The narrator comes across as everywoman - down to earth, smart, earnest, caring and fair yet resolute about protecting families; and, her conclusions follow obviously from her premises.The graphics are especially well done - they enhance what the narrator is saying and add humor and wit. Finally, and importantly, it's short. Before my first trial my Dad told me to "say what you need to say or ask what you need to ask and then sit down and shut up; too many lawyers babble on trying to prove how smart they think they are and accomplish nothing besides annoying the jury and obscuring whatever point they're trying to make." Two decades on I can confirm all aspects of that advice.
Deconstructing this work of rhetorical art needs to be done piecemeal (if only because I have a present ion to complete and thereafter a plane to catch) so let's start at the beginning (well, not the beginning beginning - that's just the anti-consumerism ideological waypoint - I mean the "are these products toxic" beginning). Anyway, the narrator says she loves her shampoo and one day got to wondering what was in it. The first thing she noticed upon reading the label was that it had chemicals in it; specifically sodium laureth sulfate, tetrasodium EDTA and methylisothiazolinone. So she took the list to some unidentified "scientists" who advised that her shampoo "contains a chemical linked to cancer!" Let's look at this claim.
As luck would have it the International Journal of Toxicology just published "Final Report of the Amended Safety Assessment of Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Related Salts of Sulfated Ethoxylated Alcohols". Not surprisingly it's a soap that may irritate your eyes but if properly formulated won't even do that. It's certainly not a carcinogen which is what the American Cancer Society, OSHA and EPA have been saying for years to anyone willing to ask.
And what about tetrasodium EDTA? Before I answer that one I'd bet it's probably not a coincidence that the first two chemicals mentioned have sodium in the name since sodium, as in sodium chloride, has become a politically incorrect element just as California's state rock has become a politically incorrect mineral. In any event there's no evidence that EDTA is a carcinogen. On the other hand, when your dentist uses it to inhibit biofilm formation in your mouth it's actually an anti-carcinogen. Then there's the fact that EDTA is used to remove toxic metals from the body. Hmmm.
Finally, there's methylisothiazolinone, a biocide that keeps fungi and bacteria from growing in your shampoo. A quick trip through the ether to the U.S. National Library of Medicine leads to the brand new "Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Methylisothiazolinone". Reaffirming previous findings the report concludes that in the doses used in personal care products methylisothiazolinone is safe. But there's something very important here that you'll miss if you're not paying attention to the big picture; and that something is the weight given in vivo versus in vitro data.
How should chemicals be tested for toxicity? Typically it's been done on animals but because of political opposition to animal testing and a 20th century belief in genetic determinism a big yet largely unnoticed push has been underway to have EPA, NTP, etc shift to doing toxicity testing on human cell lines in vitro. So far such cell line in vitro testing has repeatedly managed to find signs of cellular damage from a host of substances never before associated with toxicity. Methylisothiazolinone is one such example.
Despite the fact that neurotoxicity has never been associated with methylisothiazolinone in humans, rats, mice, etc in vitro testing found that it produced damage to a line of human neural cells. What gives?
What gives, of course, is that just as a bacterium responds to its environment differently depending on whether it's alone or in a biofilm so it's hardly a surprise that a single cell would respond to stimuli differently than would the entire organism of which it is but a vanishingly small part. Thus the decision that methylisothiazolinone is safe thanks to the weight of the in vivo data. Therefore, as we shift away from the tried and true methods of toxicity testing and towards a new model which, in light of recent discoveries regarding epigenetics and the microbiota which run a good portion of our lives, be prepared for many many more baseless health scares; and the worst part about it is that without the ability to test the hypotheses generated on actual animal models refuting even the most absurd claims will only get harder.